Over the last ten years, I’ve spent a lot of time on exercise bikes. In high school, I road countless miles while nursing injuries and cross training. Since moving to Chicago, my secret to staying in shape while maintaining an extremely unhealthy diet has been cranking up the resistance and pedaling for as long as I can.
Nearly all of my mileage has been done on a specific model–the Keiser M3. It’s the stationary bike that you’ll find in spin classes and gyms that aren’t mediocre. It’s a professional-grade piece of equipment also available to consumers for the advertised price of $1,795.00.
Is that a crazy amount of money to spend on a bike that never leaves your living room? The climate here is unhospitable to runners and so is the concrete. I purchased a road bicycle but frankly I just never felt safe anywhere in the city while cruising near 20 MPH. So, yes, the thought of having one of these bikes to call my own has often come up.
I’ve spent a long time thinking about it and, as I’ve read review after review, I’ve realized that nobody has connected all the dots regarding the M3. Hopefully, you’ll find yourself better equipped to make a purchasing decision or just to understand the nuances of your favorite bike.
The Keiser bikes and ellipticals are premium machines. Two decades ago, the two Keiser brothers got together and started inventing resistance mechanisms using magnets and other advanced scientific concepts. They produced the first bike to use magnetic resistance. The result is that once you put in a few rotations on a Keiser M3, you simply can’t return to a cheaper stationary bike. The ride is smooth because the resistance is applied using magnets rather than the traditional knob that applies pressure in a way similar to brake pads. Additionally, the magnets don’t degrade like other applicators, so each one of the M3’s 24 resistance settings will always remain the same difficulty.
There are few moving parts and little to worry about from a durability perspective. The manufacturer makes the bold claim: “nearly maintenance free.” In my opinion, a single-owner bike should last literally forever with no maintenance. However, in a shared setting, the pedals, pedal straps, and cages do wear and break, but almost exclusively from misuse. I suppose the saddle can wear as well but I’ve never seen one in desperate need of repair.
Adding to the durability and the coolness of the bike, you’ll notice that the flywheel and many of its supporting components are located in the rear of the bike. It turns out that the contraption was moved from the traditional place in the front of the frame to protect it from your sweat and the corrosion your sweat can cause.
The bike’s handlebars, saddle, and stem are easy to adjust. If necessary, any of these can be done on the fly. When comparing a competitor with a Keiser, the quality of the adjusting knobs and levers is important to note. Some reviewers note that the adjustment system is imperfect, but I disagree. I certainly set up the bike differently when I am riding hard while leaning over the bars compared to when I am just warming up, but the only occasional discomfort I have felt is when sitting on the seat at my absolute thinnest.
Is this the perfect bike, then? No.
The biggest disappointment with the bike is the onboard computer. First released in 2007, it is now extremely outdated. It is the main factor why I have not purchased the bike. It shows total time, resistance, current watts, current kcalories burned, heart rate (if you have a monitor), and RPMs. According to a video ad (released in 2017!) this is “everything that a rider needs to know.” I strongly disagree.
First, a bit about how the wattage is calculated :
“Watts are calculated from the gear setting. A potentiometer is attached to the magnet holder (the round cone shaped disc at the end of the shifter cable). As the shifter is moved, the cable rotates the magnet holder. A potentiometer is rotated by the rotation of the magnet holder, thus feeding information to the computer on the position of the magnet holder. The rotation of the potentiometer is broken down into 24 gear settings. A dynamometer was used to test and develop a table of wattage at various gear settings and speeds. The speed of the crank is determined by a magnet attached to the large pulley on the right crank arm and a magnetic switch attached to the circuit board in the magnet holder assembly. Each time the magnet on the pulley passes by the magnetic switch, a signal is sent to the computer to compute the RPM’s of the crank arm. Power equals force times velocity. The force is determined by the magnet position and the speed by the crank speed. The lookup table is programmed into the computer and the computer simply looks at the gear setting and speed and goes to the lookup table to find and display the Watts for those two settings.”
This is not the worst thing in the world. The only thing wrong with this is that the gear settings each have a decent amount of leeway and this is never reflected accurately. For example, if you’re in gear 14, you can move the lever up or down a little bit and decrease or increase the (real) resistance while still being in gear 14. However, since the bike’s lookup table only sees “gear 14,” you remain at the same wattage at identical RPMs. By the same logic, a “high” 14 might be a sliver below 15 yet a rider in 14 would be awarded none of the wattage.
The larger issue is the “trip” distance in the digital display. For years, I thought this was kilometers. Then I thought it was miles. Then, I realized that it seemed to only be linked to total rotations, not wattage. It turns out, I was right. One unit of trip distance is equal to 200 rotations of the flywheel, which has no basis in reality (or exertion). So, if you are working out and aren’t keeping a mental image of what intensity you used for which segment, how do you estimate your total effort? Trip distance is a lie and watts are only accurate to that point in time, so you’re stuck looking at… calories burned. I know this might seem like a nitpick, but, trust me, most riders will be flabbergasted to learn that their distance has never been influenced by their resistance.
Another issue is that there’s no lap or split functionality. I regularly ride intervals, and not having this function means I either have to use my phone or watch as a peripheral or just hope that my brain is able to remember and organize times at 5:30 AM (this never works).
It’s heralded as the first onboard computer. Now, it’s in last place in its price range.
All in all, this is a phenomenal bike hampered by an outdated digital display. The price, coupled with the fact that I’d need a slew of add-ons (which might not even exist) to get it to produce stats like other modern bikes makes this an unattractive purchase. Happy riding.